Ever since I was a child, I have been dreaming of visiting the Danish island of Bornholm. I first learned about it from Bornholmervalsen, and the catchy tune has stuck with me ever since.
The idyllic island, centrally located in the Baltic Sea but off southern Sweden, has also become a potential geopolitical flashpoint between Denmark – a member of the North Atlantic Treaty Organization (NATO) – and Russia. From its enclave of Kaliningrad, Russia has dispatched fighter jets into Danish airspace, forcing the Royal Danish Air Force to intercept them around Bornholm.
Only days before my arrival, Denmark re-opened its military base on the island, Almegårds Kaserne, which opened immediately after World War II but closed in 2000. There are currently no U.S. troops based on the island.
The Bornholm authorities have also instructed locals to have at least three days’ worth of food and water supplies, a local resident told me.
The township of Allinge-Sandvig is located on the island’s northern coast. Photo credit: Jacob Gudjonsson.
Tensions with Russia
Earlier this year, a string of suspected sabotage attacks targeting critical infrastructure – and underwater data cables in particular – within the Baltic Sea have transpired.
The high-stakes brinkmanship – potentially carried out by both Russia and China – not only demonstrates how vulnerable Europe has become to global power competition, but their tactics of using ‘fishing vessels’ operating within international waters leave them with plausible deniability.
Addressing the threat of hybrid warfare in the Baltic Sea, NATO Secretary-General Mark Rutte delivered in January a sharp warning, declaring: “We have seen elements of a campaign to destabilize our societies. Through cyberattacks, assassination attempts, and sabotage—including possible sabotage of undersea cables in the Baltic Sea.”
During my visit, however, none of this appeared visible, at least to tourists such as myself. Instead, I was greeted warmly by locals – when practicing my Danish – who shared their insights about life on the island. Two elderly gentlemen, one of them a proud farmer, even told me about the Nazi-occupation of Bornholm during World War II. During the final days of the war, – May 7-8, 1945 – the Soviet Union bombed the two largest towns, Rønne and Nexø, after the German commander, Gerhard von Kamptz, had refused to surrender.
From the 1950s and onwards, Bornholm remains a popular destination for German tourists.
Bornholm is nothing short of a ‘biking paradise,’ although it offers modest inclines only. The nature, cityscapes and general landscape, can only be described as stunning. Here too, I was lucky with the weather as the temperatures hovered around mid-70s Fahrenheit (23C), which the locals consider to be warm.
After settling in at Rønne Vandrerhjem – which I highly recommend to anyone looking for affordable accommodation with outstanding and friendly service – I picked up my road bike from Bornholms Cykeludlejning. The bike rental, which is conveniently located right at the Rønne harbor, offers a staggering inventory of 800 bikes and counting. Its service was also friendly and outstanding; I had missed my initial ferry – Bornholmslinjen – from Ystad in southern Sweden, but the friendly clerk adjusted my rental without penalty, which he did not have to do but it was much appreciated.
In addition to sightseeing, I dedicated my three days on Bornholm to biking: My first ride was from Rønne to Nexø, the two townships that had been bombed during World War II.
The eastern town of Nexø is an incredibly beautiful place, but the bike path wears off the main road a few miles past the airport as it takes one through numerous charming neighborhoods. Along the way, the biker is treated with stunning views of the Baltic Sea. My ride – back and forth – was approximately 50 miles (80 kilometers).
The next day, I set out on a shorter – and easier – ride to Gudhjem, which is a township on Bornholm’s northern coast. The 32-mile ride (51Km) was easy and came with the added benefit of an incline once departing Gudhjem. The township itself is charming but also fairly touristy. On my way back, I benefited from a mild breeze and stunning ocean views in addition to passing one beautiful farm after another. The island, I must point out, is dotted with beautiful farms sporting Bornholm’s traditional architecture. Any ride, wherever one chooses to go, one will pass traditional farms, the beautiful yellow wheatfields and stunning ocean views.
Next time, I definitely want to cycle around the island, which is about 62 miles (100km). I cannot wait to return!
Well-known for its pristine beaches and scenic nature, Bornholm remains a popular vacation destination for Danes and Scandinavians alike. Photo credit: Visit Bornholm.
Getting there
There are several ways of getting to Bornholm, including by air and sea. The main airport is just outside of Rønne but offers only domestic flights to and from mainland Denmark. Bornholmslinjen, in contrast, connects the island with Sweden (Ystad), Germany (Sassnitz), and Denmark (Køge). One can, of course, arrive by sailboat as well.
Bornholmslinjen, which is heavily subsidized by the Danish government, offers affordable rates as part of its long-standing policy of supporting local life on Bornholm while boosting tourism. It offers five daily departures – each way – from Ystad, Køge, and Sassnitz.
